Vintage Sizing & Measurement Guide

Why Vintage Sizing Doesn't Match Modern Sizing

If you've ever pulled on a vintage medium and felt like it fit like a small — you're not imagining it. Sizing standards have shifted significantly over the decades, and clothing manufacturers didn't use consistent standards the way most modern brands do today.

The general rule: the older the garment, the bigger the gap between the tag size and how it actually fits compared to modern clothing.

Most of the time, this means vintage runs smaller than modern sizing — a vintage large might fit closer to a modern medium. But it's not universal. Some older workwear and outerwear was cut generously and can run large. The only reliable way to know is to check the actual measurements, not the tag.

As a rough guide:

• Vintage from the 2000s–2010s: usually close to modern sizing, minor differences
• Vintage from the 1990s: noticeably smaller than modern equivalents in most cases
• Vintage from the 1980s and earlier: often significantly smaller — sometimes a full size or more off from modern equivalents, though occasionally larger in specific categories like outerwear

Because of this, we strongly recommend you ignore the tag size on any vintage piece and go by the measurements listed instead.

How We List Sizing

• Pants and jeans are listed by measured size (actual waist and inseam), not the tag size. If a tag says 34x32 but we measured it at 33x30, we list 33x30. This is the only accurate way to size bottoms, since waistbands stretch, shrink, and were cut inconsistently across brands and decades.
• All other items (shirts, jackets, sweaters, etc.) are listed by tag size, with full body measurements included in every listing description so you can verify fit yourself regardless of what the tag says.

How to Use Our Measurements

Every listing includes specific measurements. Here's how to use them:

1. Grab a similar item you already own and love the fit of — a t-shirt, jacket, or pair of jeans that fits you the way you want this piece to fit.
2. Lay it flat and measure it using the same points listed below.
3. Compare your numbers to ours. If they're close, you're in good shape. If ours run smaller or larger, that tells you exactly how the fit will differ before you buy.

This takes two minutes and is far more reliable than going off the tag size alone.

Standard Measurement Points

Tops (shirts, tees, jerseys, sweatshirts, sweaters, jackets):

• Chest — measured flat, pit to pit, then doubled (or listed as pit-to-pit, noted per listing)
• Length — from the highest point of the shoulder seam down to the hem
• Sleeve length — from the shoulder seam to the end of the cuff
• Shoulder width — seam to seam, straight across the back

Bottoms (pants, jeans, shorts):

• Waist — measured flat across the waistband, then doubled
• Inseam — from the crotch seam down to the hem
• Rise — from the crotch seam up to the top of the waistband
• Leg opening — width of the pant leg at the hem, flat

A Note on Our Process

We take measurements carefully on every single item before it's listed, and we double-check against pieces from our own wardrobe to sanity-check that a number looks right for the garment type before it goes live. If something ever seems off once it arrives — whether the measurements don't match what we listed — reach out and we'll make it right.

Quick Tips

• When in doubt, size up on vintage rather than down, especially on anything pre-1990s.
• Outerwear and workwear (Carhartt, Harley Davidson, denim jackets) can run larger than you'd expect — don't assume "vintage = smaller" applies evenly across every category.
• If a brand runs consistently one way (e.g., vintage Levi's tend to run small in the waist), we'll note it directly in the listing when we know it.